Chamanna Jenatsch (Julier Pass to Spinas): Graubunden
This hike is long and beautifully varied, with the landscapes changing drastically throughout the 22 kilometers. Expect an explosion of color: from the rocks, the mountains, the lakes, the rivers, the valleys - everything is vibrant in one way or another. At one point, it doesn’t even feel like you’re in Switzerland. The halfway point is the charming Chamanna Jenatsch, the highest SAC hut in Graubunden.
We chose the hut approach that starts at the Julier Pass, at La Veduta. The trail is pretty straightforward here, and we climbed steadily through the Val d’Agnel, alternating between steep and flat passages. But pretty soon, the green meadows turned to boulders and scree, surrounded by dark imposing mountains. The climb up to the almost 3000m Fuorcla d’Agnel was steep, and the high elevation didn’t help - we were moving slowly here, huffing and puffing. Once we gained the pass, we descended steeply down into the glacial foreland.
This part of the hike was the most striking. The mountains were rich shades of orange and red, which provided an insane contrast to the glacial lake, with it’s milky aquamarine water. And we kept stopping to collect violet-colored rocks along our path. I’ve never really seen an array of colors like this in Switzerland before - it was really incredible. It felt like we were on another planet. Finally, after 3.5 hours of hiking, we reached the hut and devoured our rosti.
The descent via the Val Bever is certainly less unique than the ascent, but no less beautiful. It’s a long, gradually descending path along the Bever, an impossibly vibrant turquoise river. Keep an eye out for marmots - we saw quite a few babies! The final stretch is through a larch and pine forest that I imagine would be positively stunning in the fall.
Julier Pass (La Veduta)
End: Spinas
Basic Route: Julier Pass - Fuorcla d'Agnel - Jenatschütte - Tegia d'Val - Spinas
22km, 985m ascent/1400m descent, T3 (approach)/T2 (descent)
